QUILTED COAT

Instructions

Reference the downloadable project sheet for project pattern diagrams.

Based on a medium size pattern of the jacket you will need 2 pieces of quilt size of 46 x 50 inches (for full back and sleeves) and 52 x 42 inches (for upper and lower front of jacket)

Quilt

1. From fabric A and C (white) cut 180 3 x 3 inch squares
2. From fabric A and C (white) cut 180 3 x 5 1/2 inch pieces
3. From fabrics B and D, cut 180 squares measuring 3 x 3 inches each. These cuts will be made across the patterned fabrics. When cutting, ensure you have sets of 8 squares, as 8 are needed for each complete square. You may wish to cut your larger squares first at the base of the fabric, and then cut your 3-inch squares to maximize the use of the fabric."
4. From fabric B&D cut 45 - 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 inch squares
5. Begin assembling your blocks 1 at a time.
6. Assemble your flying geese type block first. Lay your 3 x 3 inch square over one half of the triangle and sew in place diagonally, fold back and iron. Place the other square on the opposite side and sew diagonally also.
7. Assemble your flying geese-type block first. Lay your 3 x 3 inch square over one half of the triangle and sew in place diagonally. Fold back and iron. Then, place the other square on the opposite side and sew diagonally as well.
8. Complete the full assemblage of the 45 blocks and set aside.
9. Once all blocks are completed, you can now assemble them into 25 blocks (5 x 5 rows) and a 4 x 5 row block of 20 blocks. These will be used as a base to lay your pattern over for cutting out the coat.
10. Sandwich and quilt the quilts together.
11. Once quilted, you can begin making your jacket, following the guidance of your pattern. The only difference lies in the layout of your pattern pieces. Combine the back and sleeves on one block, and the upper and lower fronts of the jacket on the other. It's easier to cut everything while lying flat rather than folding it over in half. Carefully lay out your pieces, ensuring that you'll get the full pieces out of the blocks.
12. Move onto the jacket pattern guidelines now.

Coat

1. Prepare your pattern by measuring and cutting your size
1. Remove the grown-on facing at the centre front
2. Join the upper front and lower front together to create one piece
3. Remove bodice and sleeve hems
2. Calculate the size of quilted pieces you will need to create considering the position of the design on the finished jacket
3. Construct the jacket
1. Overlock shoulder seams
2. Join shoulder seams using open-seam
3. Press shoulder seam
4. Insert sleeves using a closed seam
5. Overlock shoulder seams closed
6. Press sleeve seam towards sleeve hem
7. Join side seams and under the arm and bodice
8. Overlock seams closed
4. In creating bias - you can use the Simplicity Bias tapemaker you will need 3.5 m
1. Cut a strip of bias binding 2 inch (5 cm wide)
2. Use the 1" 4 fold bias head on the machine
3. You will need 6 pieces of bias:
1. 2 Sleeve hems - 40 cm each
2. 1 Neck - 55 cm
3. 2 Centre front - 100 cm each
4. 1 Hem - 150 cm
5. Apply the bias by opening it up, stitching it from the inside of the jacket, folding it over to the outside of the jacket and topstitching. Complete it in this order
1. Neck and hem
2. Centre front
3. Create a loop and apply to the sleeve hem
6. Create the patch pocket by bagging a square and placing it on the outside of the jacket. Top stitch in place