PATCH DENIM SKOOL BAG

Instructions:

Double topstitch - Using Extra Strong thread, sew the first row of stitching 5mm in from top edge or in from the seam, then another row of stitching 5mm next to the first row of the stitching.

When using heavier gauge threads such as Gutermann Extra Strong Thread, you may need to adjust the tension on your sewing machine to suit.

1.5cm seam allowance is used unless specified

Outer bag - Front

Step 1 - Cut the following pieces for patch front outer front using the diagram as a guide below.

Step 2 - As per diagram, sew the bottom four pieces of fabric together. Press seams towards outer edges and double topstitch over seams. Sew top three pieces together, press seams towards the left and down then double topstitch seams. Sew the top fabrics to the bottom fabrics, press seam up and double topstitch over seam.

Outer bag - Straps

Step 1 - Cut a strip from medium denim (B) measuring 6.5cm wide by the length of the belting (1.2/1.4m- depending on desired strap length).

Step 2 - Press under 1.5cm along each of the long edges.

Step 3 - With right side facing up, pin the press denim strip to one side of the belting. Topstitch denim to belting along both long edges using extra strong thread.

Outer bag - Side gusset

Step 1 - Cut four pieces from dark denim (C): 2x 32cm long by 13cm wide and 2x 6cm long by 13cm wide.

Step 2 - Pin the denim side of one of the ends of the strap to the top right side of one of the larger gusset fabric pieces, aligning raw edges. Baste strap in place. With right sides facing, place one of the small pieces of cut gusset fabric on top of strap, aligning raw edges again. Sew together through all layers. Turn right way over with the strap face up over small piece of gusset. Press seam underneath down towards base of gusset. Double topstitch over pressed down seam. Repeat to attach the other end of strap to the pieces of cut gusset fabric.

Step 3 - Cut two pieces of vinyl (E) measuring 2.5cm high by 13cm wide. Pin and sew vinyl pieces to each side gusset pieces 2.5cm below the topstitched strap seam.

Step 4 - Cut one piece of dark denim (C) for the base gusset measuring 45cm long by 13cm wide. With right sides facing, pin each short end piece to the base ends of the two side gussets. Sew together with a 1.5cm seam allowance beginning and ending the stitching 1.5cm from each side edge.

Outer Bag: Front Flap

Step 1 - Cut a piece measuring 43cm wide by 40cm high from Denim Ticking Stripe fabric (D) and from fusible fleece. Fuse fleece to the back of the stripe fabric.

Step 2 - Cut the following pieces for patch front flap:

Step 3 - As per diagram, sew the bottom three pieces of fabric together. Press seams towards outer edges and double topstitch over seams. Sew top two left pieces together, press seam up and double topstitch seam. Sew top right fabric piece to left top pieces, press seam towards right side, double topstitch over seam. Sew the top fabrics to the bottom fabrics, press seam up and double topstitch over seam.

Step 4 - Topstitch vinyl (E) piece to bottom left as per diagram.

Step 5 - With right sides facing, place patched fabric over the padded stripe fabric. Sew together along the side and base edges, leaving the top edges open. Clip corners and trim fleece back to stitching. Turn flap right way out and press flat. Baste open top edges together.

Step 6 - Double topstitch around the outer edges of the flap, press.

Outer Bag - Putting together

Step 1 -With right sides facing, pin one side of the gusset around the side and base edges of the front outer bag aligning top raw edges and gusset seams to the bottom corners of outer front. Sew together pivoting stitching at the front base corners.

Step 2 - Repeat with the other side of the gusset to the outer back bag. Clip corners.

Step 3 - Lay the bag flat with the outer back facing up. Aligning top edges, place the front side of the front flap down on top of the outer bag in the middle. Pin and baste the top edges together.

Zipper

Step 1- To make the zipper placards, cut 2 pieces from dark denim fabric (C) each measuring 40cm long by 11cm wide.

Step 2 - With right sides facing, fold and press fabric in half, aligning long edges. Pin and sew short ends together leaving long ends open. Clip corners and turn right way out, press flat. Baste open edges together.

Step 3 - Pin each side of the zipper under the long pressed long edges of each of the fabric pieces, ensuring each piece are even top and bottom.

Note - There will be excess zipper at one end hanging out of fabric. This allows the bag to open wider when the zip is open.

Step 4 - Sew zipper in place with matching thread.

Step 5 - Double topstitch along the long and side edges of the fabric next to the zipper.

Step 6 - To make a tab to go over end of zipper, cut a small piece of dark denim (C) measuring 7cm by 6cm. With right sides facing, fold fabric in half aligning the shorter ends. Sew the side edges together with a 1cm seam allowance. Clip and trim corners and turn right way out. Press opening seam allowance to inside of tab.

Step 7 - Trim excess zipper down to approximately 10cm or desired length. Insert the cut zipper end into the opening in the fabric tab. Topstitch zipper end place inside the tab by topstitching a double row of stitching as per the zipper placard.

Lining

Step 1 - From medium denim (B) cut 2x pieces each measuring 45cm wide by 5cm high.

Step 2 - With right sides facing, pin each of these pieces to each of the raw edges of the zipper placard.

Step 3 - Cut two pieces of lining fabric each measuring 45cm long by 30cm high.

Step 4 - Flip the zipper over and with the wrong side up of the zipper placard facing up, place each of the bigger lining pieces right sides down over the placard raw edge. Pin then sew through all three layers. Press each of the lining pieces away from zipper placard. Trim seam then press seam down. Topstitch along the seams.

Step 5 - Cut two pieces from fusible fleece each measuring 35cm high by 45cm wide. Fuse each piece to the back of the inner front and inner back pieces.

Lining gusset

Step 1 - Cut the following pieces from medium denim (B) and fusible fleece:

2x sides: 35cm long by 13cm wide.

1x base: 45cm long by 13cm wide.

Step 2 - Fuse fleece to the back of each gusset piece.

Step 3 - With right sides together, pin the side pieces to either side of the base piece. Sew together with a 1.5cm seam allowance beginning and ending the stitching 1.5cm from each side edge.

Step 4 - With right sides facing, pin one side of the gusset around the side and base edges of the one of the lining pieces aligning top raw edges and gusset seams to the bottom corners of lining piece. Sew together pivoting stitching at the base corners.

Step 5 - Repeat with the other side of the gusset to the other lining piece leaving a 15cm opening in the side seam for turning out. Clip corners and trim fleece back to stitching.

Lining pocket

Step 1 - Cut one piece of stripe ticking fabric measuring 22cm wide by 25cm high.

Step 2 - With right sides facing fold fabric in half aligning to the top edge down with the base edge. Pin and sew all edges together with a 1cm seam allowance leaving a 5cm opening at the base for turning out.

Step 3 - Clip corners and turn pocket right way out. Press flat with opening seam allowance to the inside of the pocket.

Step 4 - Thread lobster clasp through grosgrain ribbon and sew ends together to form a loop.

Step 5 - Place clasp to the right side of the pocket with the raw ends of ribbon looped to the underside of pocket. Pin in place in desired position.

Step 6 - Sew a double topstitch hem along the top of the pocket piece securing the ribbon to pocket within the stitching.

Step 7 - Place pocket to the right side of the back-lining piece with the pocket centered, and the base of pocket 12cm up from the base of fabric. Topstitch the side and base edges of the pocket to the lining piece leaving the top of the pocket open.

Putting the whole bag together

Step 1 - Place the outer bag inside the lining with right sides facing, ensuring the flap and strap are inside between the layers. Pin outer bag and lining together at the top raw edges, matching all seams. Sew together through all layers. Trim fleece back to stitching and layer seam.

Step 2 - Turn bag right way out through the opening in the lining. Sew opening closed and place lining inside outer bag. Press top edge, pulling the flap out and away from seam. Topstitch around the upper edge, 5mm in from the top.